Iceland Travel Guide
What do, eat, and see in Iceland. A look into Deplar Farm, favorite regions to visit, where to ski, and what I wore to stay warm up North
Hello readers!
Kellyn here for a back-to-back letter!
I just got home from an incredible trip to Iceland and the U.K., and am still buzzing with that post-travel reset—the I’m going to maximize every day like I do when I’m traveling energy. We’ll see how long it takes for me to stop topping everything with duty free artisan lava rock finishing salt and go back to normal life.
I’ve had so many people reach out recently saying that they’re traveling to Iceland soon and are looking for requests on where to eat/stay/visit/shop etc., so today, I bring you a little Iceland Travel Guide.
A preface: First, I will not blow up any super secret spots. Second, I encourage you to use this as a starting point, but then get lost and find your own little trails and waterfalls and beaches to explore. And lastly, this is obviously not comprehensive! Until I get a Rick Steeves travel budget, I can’t possibly go everywhere and try it all. I’ll focus on a few spots I’ve spent time in and give my two cents, mention some things I think are worth (or not worth) doing, and let you take it from there.
Oh Iceland! I’ve been fortunate enough to visit a good handful of times, and each time has been a very different, but always magical experience.
I first visited Iceland as a kid with my family and it was spectacular. I feel like it was before tourism really exploded there and we had all of these now-busy places to ourselves. I remember my brother and I just running through rolling hills and climbing around on the lava rock like wild jungle gyms. I remember watching little icebergs crash onto the black sand beach and riding the Icelandic horses. I ate arctic char—what I believed to be a very exotic and adult meal for a kid. My world was expanding! And I also remember that my show and tell upon my return to school was absolutely loaded and I’m sure my teacher had to play the oscars wrap-it-up music for me to sit back down.
That same child like wonder comes back every time I’m in Iceland. I’m going to take an excerpt from a few letters back where I did a self assigned book report about the remarkable Eider ducks. On Iceland:
The landscape feels both ancient and impossible, as if someone took the familiar elements of earth and sky and reassembled them with just enough magic to make you wonder if such beauty can truly exist in the waking world or if you’ve stepped through some invisible threshold into a realm where the ordinary rules don’t quite apply.
Standing in that vast wilderness, you become something between a time traveler and an early explorer, or maybe even just a little kid with nothing but endless miles of solitude stretching in every direction. You feel like you just want to run as fast as you can and put your face into the wind, crouch down and look at all the little rocks or poke the squishy moss. With no trees to fragment the view, your eyes can travel uninterrupted across the rolling hills to their furthest reaches. In certain corners of the country, you find yourself completely untethered from the modern world—no indicators of what century you’re in, only the ancient sounds and scents of wilderness that remains beautifully, utterly unchanged.
I really value spending time in wild places and there’s nowhere that feels quite as wild and raw as this island. I hope you can all experience it one day. Until then, arm chair travel with me today and bring a bit of Iceland to you, wherever you are!
I’m starting this travel guide off in the capital of Reykjavik, because that’s probably where you’ll start your trip—
Reykjavik
You made it to Iceland! Did you see the Aurora Borealis from the plane window? Did Icelandair rob you blind and forget to feed you on an overnight flight?
TIP: You technically fly into Keflavik, a town 45 minutes from Reykjavik, so you’ll need to take a bus or rent a car into the city.
Once getting into the city, you’re going to want a coffee and a pastry, I’m sure.
Coffee/Pastries
-Braud & Co: This linked location specifically. I get the the cardamom roll, Cody recommends the Vinarbraud.
-DEIG Workshop: Bagels, donuts, breads, and sandwiches!
-Reykjavik Roasters: Good coffee
Then you’re going to maybe want to shop around?
Shopping
-Fischersund: Fischersund is a perfumery unlike anything else. It’s equal parts fragrance, storytelling, music, visual arts, and poetry. I don’t want to spoil it too much, but make sure to get a spray of Útilykt, the smell of the outdoors, and sign up for the guided scent journey ahead of time.
-Húrra: Men’s and women’s clothing store with brands like Stone Island, Diemme, A.P.C., Gramicci, etc.
-12 Tónar: Record store/bar/cafe/music venue right downtown.
-Arason: Small mens clothing store. Beautiful sweaters and silk bandanas.
-Kormákur and Skjöldur: Stunning tailored tweed and suiting for men, and carries brands like Barbour, Paraboot, Filson, and Walker Slater. They also have a barber shop inside!
-Hum: Another centrally located clothing store with lots of great womenswear and shoe options.
-Andrá: Carries some of my favorites!
-Varma: Warm thick Icelandic wool sweaters and blankets. You’ll see Varma in a lot of other clothing store and gift shops. I’m really not allowing myself to buy anymore sweaters but almost made an exception for a Varma piece. Next time!
Icewear: I have been wearing Icewear sweaters since I was a kid, and still use one as my coldest-day wool layer while skiing. You can order from their online store as well! I appreciated this styling in their storefront:
66°North: I’ve linked the flagship store. An Icelandic classic with really high quality outerwear. I liked this beanie and this down hat from the District Vision collab.
Then you’ll be post-shop bonking and need some real food…
