Copenhagen Fashion Week Part 1
Favorites from the shows I attended, sustainable fashion, & why Copenhagen?
Oh Copenhagen. Let me set the scene for you-
Big leafy trees dot the cobblestone streets and give shade to little kids walking hand in hand toward the preschool. Because bikes outnumber cars on nearly every street, and most cars are electric, all you hear are birds chirping and people quietly chatting as they observe the bike lane stop lights. My Donkey Republic bike (Copenhagen’s bike sharing service) has a concealed chain and gear hub so I don’t need to worry about my floor length silk dress catching as I glide down the street. I make a left and then a right and then another left turn until my little arrow orients itself as I google map my way to the location on my invite for a show. It’s a perfect 70 degrees with a high UV index so my freckles are appearing by the handful when I close my eyes and put my face in the sun as I park my bike. I know I’m in the right spot because men with beautiful tiny handbags and perfect loafers give me a half smile as my rental bike lock chime dings and gives my touristness away. I grin widely back and know I’ve confirmed their suspicion that I’m an American. Oh well.
Street style photographers are smattered around the roped entrance to the outdoor runway venue. I’m in Kødbyen, or the old Meatpacking District. The show is being held outside, in-between two of the historic ‘brown meatpacking’ brick buildings- the oldest in the area- that are now home to various creative or archival venues. The most fashionable people I’ve ever seen strut all around me, posing for the photographers. People were dripping in accessories and unexpected layers, donning wild sunglasses, head to toe lace or leather and aesthetics of every kind, somehow all complimenting each wearer perfectly. Everyone is calm and polite, giving off a gentle energy of ‘I’m in my element’.
I sometimes get overwhelmed in hectic city situations, and even though this was buzzing and busy, it was purely enjoyable. Everyone was complimenting each others outfits, thanking the photographers, and calmly finding their seats under the sun, waiting for the show to begin. I had a standing spot behind the first row. I was absolutely giddy and mentally pinching myself that I was given a coveted invitation to the very intimate Deadwood show. I told the girl crew next to me how phenomenal they looked with their sheer sequined dresses and wet-look hair. Like literally everyone, they seemed utterly intimidating, but were so kind and warm and eager to chat as soon as I said hello. Who knows, maybe I came off a little bit intimidating too- summoning some false confidence to show up alone and quietly observe everything (they didn’t know it’s because I didn’t know anyone and had no idea how any of this works haha.) Often, I was one of the only ones walking up to the shows alone- most everyone had a crew, sometimes in coordinated outfits, with planned arrivals for the photographers. I actually didn’t mind it at all and felt so empowered being alone and entirely unknown to everyone around me- like I was in the drivers seat of my own body with a sparkling new world in front of me that I’ve not yet explored. Time in the outdoors has taught me the importance of an Explorer’s Mindset; mindful, observant and present. Agenda-less. Senses wide awake with a childlike excitement to explore anything that comes your way and follow where it may lead.
Anyway. After chatting with the sheer sequined girls next to me, a brooding instrumental melody filled the air and drowned out any ongoing conversations. In perfect unison, an iPhone appears in each set of hands pointing toward the back of the cobblestone runway. I quickly Shazammed the song with my phone brightness all the way down so no one could see (I suffer from IMSACSNMWIA- I Must Shazam A Cool Song No Matter Where I Am) and followed lead- camera up and ready to shoot the opening look. (The song was The Line by Aure)
What you’ll find in today’s letter: Mega inspiration from my favorite shows I went to, favorite looks from those shows, why I wanted to go in the first place.
What you’ll find in my next letter: Breaking down the trends I saw, and which ones I’m stoked on. How to take these trends and interesting elements and incorporate them into an everyday wardrobe in the mountains or in the city. Photos from my favorite street style looks!! And links to secondhand and new pieces that are inspired by the trends on the runway and on the street.
Why did I chose Copenhagen when there’s so many other fashion weeks? What did I want to get out of it?
Copenhagen Fashion Week has been my favorite to follow from afar and my dream to attend for years for many reasons.
Firstly, the sustainability aspect of the organization. The common thread through every event and showcase during the week is sustainability. The shortcomings of the flawed clothing industry is acknowledged often and with honesty, and there are many discussions and talks on ways forward and new methods of textile creation. There’s a minimum set of standards that all brands and shows must adhere to. All venues must comply with green building standards, no single-use plastic packaging (including garment protectors) and the organization has public sustainability reports and action plans which outline how it works to accelerate industry change. So we like that!!!
Second, in comparison to fashion weeks in other locations (from watching from afar!) the designers that are showcased at CPHFW are often more whimsical, sometimes more casual, and always so innovative in their materials. I always find more clothes that I could actually see myself wearing and finding designers that just align with my style.
Third, the street style. The effortless, funky, scandi vibes of the attendees is a source of endless inspiration. ENDLESS.
Forth, Copenhagen is just the best. Even if I didn’t get accepted into a single show, I would have still had the best week bopping around. I could bike to swim in the ocean and grab the best coffee I’ve had in years and an incredible pastry and get back to my cute neighborhood with time to get ready for a day of museums or shopping or eating or all of the above, all while feeling pretty safe as a female traveling alone. It’s the *little things.
*big
Ok I’ll “talk” less and show more.
Here’s the first show I went to-
Rolf Ekroth SS25- “Lavatanssit”
What I loved- Everything paired with sporty shoes, genderless skirt and dress silhouettes, skirts over pants, tall socks (by Happy Socks), gorpy cinched hoods, oversized blazers and overcoats with plaid detailing, pierced fabrics, 3D embellishments, headscarves, upcycled life jackets? And this incredible tear makeup. (seen in photo 9)
I think, TOGS readers, that this is a very wearable collection and great inspiration for spring and even fall dressing. It’s functional, it’s fashionable, it’s genderless, it’s interesting. The proportions are great examples of how to do oversized clothing in sporty ways and layer in different combinations.
Since I was shazamming the whole week long, I’ll also include the songs that played on the runway of each show so you can get the full experience-
♫ Paratiisi- Ville Valo & Agents
Caro Editions
Great casual backyard vibes from the start. Pints of beer, orange wine, shady trees, and lap dogs made for a lovely ambiance.
What I loved- The hats!! I’d love to see these hats styled with some mountain garb. The shape and mixed patterns are to die for. I also loved the vintage silhouettes, retro motif sequined designs, and the glam. Natural makeup with pops of bright matte lips. This was a really lovely and whimsical collection. (I was especially partial to the plaid coat/hat combo in photo 4.)
♫ Some Velvet Morning- Nancy Sinatra & Lee Hazelwood
♫ Pedestrian at Best- Courtney Barnett
Deadwood
Deadwood is so fascinating to me because of Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder’s absolute innovation in their materials. They utilize upcycled discarded leather, vegan cactus leather, and are pioneers on the new frontier that is mycelium leather. You read that right, mycelium. Here are some of the fungi material pieces from a previous collection.
I’m such a fan. Here are some of my favorite looks from SS25-
What I loved- This location. (aforementioned in the into.) The leather pieces are, of course, standouts. I also loved the bomber jackets, more sporty shoes and flip flops, chic apocalypse dune vibes, beautiful combinations of natural colors, and sheer and asymmetrical genderless skirts. Photo 8 with the dark green bomber and skirt was my very favorite.
♫ Bohemian Like You- The Dandy Warhols
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
This is the only show I’m including that I wasn’t physically at because the collection was just so good. Maybe I’ll be in-person at next show ;)
I actually stop breathing when I look at these. And I’ve been looking at them for weeks. The texture, the creams paired with whites, more sailor/bucket hats, the scalloped edges, peter pan collars, the use of sheer, the gorgeous trenches, and the tailoring. I’m kicking my feet at my desk right now. MKDT is goated for a reason! And I felt like the collection was truly designed for spring/summer.
Baum und Pferdgarten- “Office Olympics”
Ah wow it was such a blast to be at the Østerbro football stadium, sitting in the bleachers with pints of beer, watching the jumbotron of the runway like the Big Game that this was. Baum und Pferdgarten nailed the whole creative direction. And the production was a sight to behold! There were multiple camera angles on the screen that mimicked a football game, and the music was pumping.
What I liked: More incredible sporty/dressy juxtaposition! I loved the footwear choices- loafers, sneaker, and kitten heels with their opposite style clothing. I loved the rugby shirts and layered button downs, sheer and sparkly pieces, oversized suiting, and branded pieces like the socks.
MARTAN
Martan creates clothing that is fully upcycled. I mean fully- all of the fabric is sourced from discarded luxury linens. They explained to me that hotels will throw away any linens with minor mistakes or holes before ever being used, which is the source of a massive amount of wasted textiles. Martan comes in and sustainably dyes the fabric and then sews it into gorgeous geometrical garments. This collection was inspired by the architectural design of ships and their sails, with refined slits and rope detailing. You all know I’m a big fan of rope accents! The presentation was held alongside a canal, which was fitting. They also have the kindest team and are so passionate about making the most sustainable clothing possible. This will be a brand I’ll be following closely.
Marimekko
Pinch me. The dream. Front row at Marimekko, on the water, in front of the Royal Danish Opera House. I’m so grateful, seriously.
The sky around us was dark with rain, but the sun shown down, lighting up these gorgeous, colorful prints. Marimekko, who has a long history of creating bold prints and livable deigns, began in Finland and has since become well loved worldwide. I recommend visiting the Designmuseum Danmark if you’re in Copenhagen to see some early Marimekko designs and notable textiles. It’s also worth mentioning that, in my experience with the brand, they have just the kindest people employed at every level. From the team answering emails, to each person directing you to your seat, everyone was as happy and welcoming as the brand itself seems from the outside. I was a fan before but I’m a bonafide superfan now. It makes all the difference.
I also particularly loved seeing everyone in their Marimekko in the crowd. So many Jokapoika shirts and Unikko flowers. It really felt like a bouquet of prints and it was so joyful.
What I loved- The prints of course! You can’t not. Specifically the print in the 6th and 8th photo here. That cobalt blue is perfect. I loved seeing even more sporty/non sporty pairing, more rugby and polo style shirts, mixing patterns (stripes and floral, you can never go wrong) and denim! (a first for Marimekko.) And sneakers with dresses in true Scandinavian fashion.
Irish Embassy talk
I also was lucky enough to attend an intimate discussion at the Irish Embassy about textile circularity and sustainability in Irish design. Baller, I know.
We discussed the complications of “sustainable fashion”- one being that it is unregulated language, similar to food labeling with words like “natural” or “healthy.” Save for certifications like B Corp, there are no distinguishable standards for companies to comply to be “sustainable.” We talked about the problems we create by telling (or shaming) people to buy more sustainable clothing, and how classist it’s become.
We discussed how really, sustainable dressing comes from putting value into the clothing that you do buy. If what you buy will be worn many times, and for years to come (regardless of the price of the item), then that’s a positive step for sustainability. We also talked briefly about the horrors that are brands like SHEIN and other fast fashion companies who are starting to use AI to trawl the internet and rip off popular designs to crank out 10,000 new styles every single day. It’s despicable and no one should be purchasing from this new apocalyptic hellscape of lighting fast fashion.
Conscious consumerism comes from within. It starts with education, and our heritage is a great connection point and place to start. So thank you Ireland!!
Get ready, if I wasn’t already obsessed with wool, I am now.
And finally, a little collection of the outfits I wore during the week-
Thank you especially to KkCO for sending this packable cargo pocket dress which allowed me to be feminine and rugged and funky and minimal all at the same time. I can’t wait to style it on the trails. (Did someone say snack pockets?)
I also can’t wait to share more about the STREET STYLE in the next letter because oh boy is it possibly the best part of the whole week. That and how to boil down all these trends and how to wear them in your day to day life. Plus some Copenhagen recommendations.
Thank you for reading. Hopefully this was a fun little escape into the whimsical world of nordic fashion and has sparked some thoughts about sustainability and broadening your own personal style.
Lots of love to you all,
Kellyn
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LOVE!!!